This is a tiny-production, sherry-style wine made from Verdejo and Palomino. Prepare to have your mind blown.

It’s a rebellious wine in every sense - it’s from Rueda in northern Spain, but it’s not allowed to be labelled that way because of the way in which it’s made. 

Which is funny, because this is how Rueda used to be made, in underground cellars hundreds of years ago.

I found it in Paris of all places, at a wine fair. It came through a friend called Laura Hoyos, who helps Mateo Ruiz export his now-legendary La Mateo Rioja wines. So anything Laura puts in front of me, I take notice.

I met her in Paris, and she insisted I try this from under the table at her stand. 

If you like Amontillado or Palo Cortado sherry, then you’ll love this. The nose is so indulgent and refined, with nutty, toffee and caramel flavours jumping out of the glass. The palate is rich, creamy and textured, with tons of complexity and a long, satisfying finish.

Laura calls this wine 'a jewel from the past' - the solera system which it's taken from dates back to 1955. How special is that!