Earlier this year, and after years of chasing, I finally tracked down Burgundy hotshot Romain Cornin in Paris.

Romain and a group of other young winemakers had taken over a dusty old Basque pelota club on the banks of the Seine for a secret tasting after the big Wine Paris trade show.

After tasting together and fist-bumping on a deal, I asked him if there was anything else I should try before leaving.

He nodded across the room at Alexis Gerin, the son of legendary Côte-Rôtie producer Jean-Michel Gerin.

This had been a long day at this point - I’d been up early for a 6am flight, and had tasted about a hundred wines that day. I’d trudged through the wet and misty Paris streets to get here.

But you can always count on a good Syrah to awaken the senses - and nowhere on earth does Syrah like Côte-Rôtie.

The waves of white pepper, violets, mushrooms, lush dark fruit and smokiness… eight months later I could still remember it as I pulled up at Domaine Gerin, the imposing vine-covered slopes of Côte-Rôtie above me.

I’d read about the place for years, so it was amazing to finally see it.

The actual size of Côte-Rôtie really belies its legendary status and reputation.

For a short two-kilometre stretch where the Rhône river turns a sharp right at Vienne, you’ll find dramatic vineyards carved into steep terraces of granite and slate. 

The vineyards face south-east, avoiding the late-afternoon burn from the sun, and the steep slopes ensure maximum exposure for the grapes.

It’s breathtaking. Then you taste the wines, and wonder how on earth they can deliver such colour, power and complexity, at just 13% alcohol. 

And that’s the magic of wine for me. Nowhere else in the world can it taste just like it does from here.